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Post by new2dirt on Apr 30, 2014 14:43:57 GMT -6
Here is one of my engine plans for the 2015 race season... I've been collecting parts, hopefully by the end of summer I will have all of the parts so I can start the chassis build.
VDL 4412, Edelbrock 7116, Vortec 906 heads to be cleaned up and slightly worked to hit 50cc, 2.00"int/1.55"exh with 11/32" stems, 7/16" screw in rocker studs, 1.6:1 roller tip rockers, girdle, pushrod guides, one piece chromo pushrods, comp cams beehive springs, The block casting is 010/020, that will be hard blok'd on the lower portion of the water jackets to reduce vibs/harmonics, punched out .040", Zero deck, goal CR is 12.75:1. the lifter bores will be opened up a little (.9055"-.9065"), Will most likely run a tight lash solid cam (106*) with lift in the ball park of .520"-.540"... But, this can change as I have yet to sit down and figure everything out. Will run a billet true roller timing set, Mahle forged flat tops, Scat Forged 6" I-beams with 7/16" 12 point bolts, Scat forged lightened 3.500" crank, will use Clevite H & P series bearings. I'll be doing most of the machining in-order to save some coin so I can spend it in the needed areas/parts. I'm thinking this should be a pretty solid set-up... Any thoughts? lol |
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Apr 30, 2014 15:34:07 GMT -6
By the rules I hope! Oil restrictors? Crank scraper? Wind-age tray? Valley Pan? Stock clearances on the crank and tapered edges on the bottom of the piston skirts for letting the oil take up the .006 skirt clearance? No coated skirts to scuff? Floated rods? Light weight wrist pins? Open the oil drains in the rear corners by the mains? Slick hone with no cross hatching? Tubes in the valley and screens for insurance? Ported head gaskets for better cooling? No block paint inside to slow cooling transfer? A blocked off bypass on the oil filter? Check for all the mounting holes being drilled and tapped? 3 on the starter! Light weight fuel pump rod? I do like a 110 separation with more like 575 lift!
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Post by Krooser on May 1, 2014 15:38:57 GMT -6
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Post by new2dirt on May 3, 2014 21:56:27 GMT -6
By the rules I hope! Oil restrictors? Crank scraper? Wind-age tray? Valley Pan? Stock clearances on the crank and tapered edges on the bottom of the piston skirts for letting the oil take up the .006 skirt clearance? No coated skirts to scuff? Floated rods? Light weight wrist pins? Open the oil drains in the rear corners by the mains? Slick hone with no cross hatching? Tubes in the valley and screens for insurance? Ported head gaskets for better cooling? No block paint inside to slow cooling transfer? A blocked off bypass on the oil filter? Check for all the mounting holes being drilled and tapped? 3 on the starter! Light weight fuel pump rod? I do like a 110 separation with more like 575 lift! As tight to the rules as others. But, to answer your questions; No oil restrictors as I'm wanting the oil to keep my springs cool. No crank scraper. Moroso deep oil pan with trap doors. Yes to... valley pan, plugs and oil screens. Mahle Powerpak Pistons for 6" rods. Everything is lightened, Haven't opened the drains, I'd like to have it slick honed but how many places actually do it correctly or actually do it, especially in or around small towns? Not allowed to port/match though rough/excess casting material has been removed. No block paint inside. I'm not sure that I want to completely block off the bypass. All bolt holes will be cleaned and chased. Two bolts on the starter, Moroso light weight fuel pump rod. Idk about the 110* and .575" I don't think I'll see any advantage with that cam on a 1/4-3/8 track... most of these tracks here are slick..... hmmm. Thinking a custom split pattern cam for getting off of the corners but more pull down the stretch. I picked up a set of springs from PAC (140-lbs seat 410-lbs open .550" max lift).
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Post by new2dirt on May 3, 2014 21:59:21 GMT -6
Thanks for the links Krooser! I will look into them. Any experience with them? |
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Post by Krooser on May 10, 2014 23:29:22 GMT -6
Camcraft ground a 2bbl Olds cam for me two years ago… he is an Olds specialist but has a great handle on what it takes to make a 2bbl engine win.
Mike Jones ground the SBC cam we are using in my son's WISSOTA b-mod… he comes highly recommended.
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Post by new2dirt on May 11, 2014 14:39:15 GMT -6
Talked to Mike Jones via email and after doing a lot of research... I told him to go ahead and grind away. Now I have to find some billet main caps to replace the stock ones.
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Post by new2dirt on May 12, 2014 18:15:04 GMT -6
Mike suggested the follow cam... Cam# M72352-73359-106 244/248 @ .050" .352"/.359" Lobe Lift 106 LSA Running the Comp Cams 1.52 Roller Tip Rockers my net lift with valve lash will be .518"/.527".... I'll be spinning this motor 6800 down the stretch and around 3500-4k off of the corner. Hopefully it pulls hard all the way down.    |
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on May 12, 2014 21:13:10 GMT -6
Gear ratios and degree ideas go together for me as well as weight of load! No vacuum rule to deal with helps but I still want all I can get for the torque it produces in vaporizing the fuel to cool the intake and increase flow to add horses! What type of fuel to feed this beast? My fifty numbers are less but the 1.6 rockers and extra lift with more split seems to make up a total that works for me! Small valves and runners needs all the help they can get but it speeds up movement with chamber swirl too! I use dist. weights to kill timing to decrease power with extra fuel to hook up in the turns! Then run it on the floor in the turns and let it come on as it needs to gradually to handle all the low end torque and horses I can muster! This allows a higher gear to stay in my pulling range more! Load the wagon as they say! You can always play with valve adjustments, geometry, rocker ratios, fuels, timing and degree of the cam as to peaks if needed per gear choice! A solid cam gives lots to play with to gain an edge! Looks good to me at a 104 setting per rpms! Water ports was my opening up concern if not racing gaskets with larger flow holes as far as running cooler! Good luck with your build! Sounds great!
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Post by new2dirt on May 13, 2014 10:32:40 GMT -6
I'm building the car to be 3000 with me in it and without fluids. Everything will be scaled... weights will be incorporated inside the cage as well as outside, for track conditions. I'm using 1-3/4" x .120" wall tubing for the cockpit and rear (Basically, from the firewall back will be DOM). The bottom will be flat/smooth and the passenger side will have a air flow tunnel that will direct the rush of air over the rear tire/spoiler. She's going to be unique to say the least. I'll be running 6.30 gears. I appreciate the information "FLIPFLOPOO1OO". I'm sure I'll be picking your brain about some "things".
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