Bomber 4cyl

Toe the front-end out 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to help it turn while pulling through the turn or coasting! Lean it left a bit as to level out when rolled instead of nosing and changing torque angles! Move the upper struts as far back as you can and then a little more by hook or crook! Put the struts in a press and bend at the top and time them as to help it roll when turning left! If lower A arms or strut rod ft. end designed, move the lowers ball joints position forwards by some means as well as camber of neg. left and pos. right if any can be had! Most all rears have steer of sorts and can be of some help in adjusting to have 1/8 of static steer if needed when still tight after all else has been done! Constant steer keeps you high or loose all the time (if not corrected when lean steer goes away) but not so much as to be loose enough that you have to steer to the right to control it in the turn! A good set-up requires little steer front or rear by working when lifting to steer with roll holding it there and no steer when getting off the turn! A taller left front tire (with air as a secondary spring pressure and as a spring adjustment) will (give a set-up change right or left if needed) preload the spring (by flex-ability) to help it push it over easier when needed and plant the rt. rear as not to slide around but help it roll to level! A bit of the left ft. spring can be chopped or heated to give a weaker spring that will compress without changing the lean of the car as you want a left leaned car to be able to get it to come off the corner straight! A minor variation (shimmed tighter on the left or reversible if needed) in the rear spring, (weaker on the right) will allow you to keep left rear weight through the cross when rolled as not to loose left rear weight when rolled and spin out! Good shocks and struts are a must as not to bounce, although a good used as to (new on the left ft.) may give the variance needed as to aide in moment center, cross, and pivot points to give driver control with the turn of the steering wheel to transfer weight per wheel when rolled and hauling ass! Higher air pressures on the left as not to roll under and cause the car to roll harder without warning in the turn, lets you set up work with less track interference to deal with! Off set wheels can change spring rates if needed and a slight amount of roll out ft. and rear can help it lean left as well as lower air pressures on the right to cushion bumps that changes leaning of the car when rolled and can be tipped right when already rolled enough! Rear struts or shocks should be the same and used but not worn to be easier to match right front with the left ft. doing all the handling for you! Now you have a adjustable dirt car set-up on your stock car! Good luck on the test run! Post if other help is needed as to adjusting! If spring bars if torqued can be adjusted at the holding points to get variances too! Ride heights changes preloads and crosses do the pounds with weight locations! If loose weight can be used low, left and rear to put present-ages within a working ranges even on a front drive car! Rear would be less and need more placed to do the most rear tire traction as not to spin out! Low left and rear controls that! Adding this weight preloads the left rear spring as to not loose traction of the tire when rolled and allowing more movement when rolling with out dropping poundage! Good luck!