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Post by street16 on May 28, 2014 12:43:37 GMT -6
My engine stumbles on race starts and restarts. I've always attributed it to loading up under warm-up/caution laps or being brought to green at very low speed. This weekend I started one of my races from the pole. I cleared out the engine and brought the field to green at a faster than normal pace - it still stumbled. Once I'm up to speed, it runs fantastic. The way it takes off has me thinking carburator tuning (750 DP). Should I start with jets or accelerator pump cams? If I swap accelerator pump cams, should I have more or less fuel initially? I'm not a carb guy, so any help will be appreciated.
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Post by bustedknuckle on May 29, 2014 8:29:01 GMT -6
Two things I would check are the accelerator pump and the secondaries. I would make sure the accelerator pumps start to operate with the throttle, no lag time between throttle opening and pump operating. second I would want a little lag time between the primary and secondary throttles opening.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on May 30, 2014 14:47:04 GMT -6
I thought of a dozen or more issues that any one could cause this! I lost the pages in trying to post them! Twice! ---- It boils down to low vacuum by timing or valves or ign. breaking down under load! Don't ask me how it knows it is being loaded but it does! Bump up the timing and road test! Locking the weights makes for too low of setting on a 350 engine at 38 max! A 10 vacuum advance and 10 with the weights will let it crank and run on top end! A bad power valve can be the culprit! I don't run one and just jet it up 5 more sizes! Trash or float levels! Reading the plugs should give some tips! Hope it is a fuel easy fix and hoping this tiny bit gets to post!!!
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Post by street16 on Jun 2, 2014 9:32:52 GMT -6
Bustedknuckle - it's set up just as you stated Flipflopoo1oo - it's definitely carb, not timing or msd box. I've checked and double checked power valves. I got an e-mail from a "carb guy" that said my squirters may be too small (#31). I'm going to up the primary squirter to #40 with a hollow screw and see what it does. Thanks!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 2, 2014 20:47:18 GMT -6
If you try it after cleaning it out a few laps ,does it still stumble? If plugs are loading up you may have too much at once! How does it do siting still? Is it crisp every time or loads up after gas-ing it a few times? I have seen too much K&N oil on a filter cause this or even make the headers glow! Check your vacuum! If lower than ten you may need more timing! I run near 60 and burn all the fuel I can get down it's throat! Upping the timing with too much fuel will help vaporize it if too much, as a test if it responds better! Try lowering the float levels, you can get slosh on starts if getting too much! I lost all the carb input in my other post! I build tons of carbs of any kind and take too much for granted as just a look will tell you if its pumping enough or just look at the plugs as getting too much! All the threads will be wet! Even now! Hot, cold or next weak for that matter! Three threads of oil residue on number three should be correct! Any more and it is fat like me! Make sure your Idle screws and vents are correct! If screwed in all the way it should die, if not it is getting fuel form some where it shouldn't! Make sure it does not dribble or draw from the flow bars at idle! This will load it up fast! Was this engine always this way or did this start after a fuel pump change or valve adjustment or something that may have triggered it? It is all about testing and clues sometimes! Some changes should give enough data to decide which way to go! Hope more is a fix!
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Post by street16 on Jun 5, 2014 8:33:21 GMT -6
Well, the squirter swap was a bust. After double checking timing (36 degrees) and valve lash (.016), I was about ready to give up. Then I found an old HEI curve kit sitting on a shelf, and figured "why not". Big improvement! I'm temped to try a locked distributer to see if that helps. For now, I'm going to take it to the track this weekend and see how much it helped in race conditions.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 6, 2014 7:28:41 GMT -6
Advanced control is the way to go!!! If locked, cranking at too high of a setting limits your total advance! Check out my HEI post or other post as to getting more fire power to make more horses! A block of 6-10 with weights by making a limiting screw will let you get 38 running and still crank! No engine should have to suffer from being locked at one timing EVER!!! Valves should have a bit more lash plus .002 more for heat expansion lengthening the stem! Coming off or setting differently can change any cam profile for a better tune! I tune per cylinder by several ways to balance and boost their power! No bolt on and go racing for me! A extra fifty horses to my tuning and no dy-no needed! Just a heavy foot and a trophy! A faulty pick-up coil will lower the timing when heated! One guy had three dist. and had ruled dist. out also until my trusty meter checked them out! A Delco is high dollar but a factory stock tested used one works great! How far and what color is your spark? Check it out and throw a blue bolt 1.6 inches with-out a ground to jump to!
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Post by street16 on Jun 11, 2014 12:14:38 GMT -6
Recurve kit helped some but didn't fix the problem. Found that the Primary squirter was at top of lobe @ half throttle. Put in bigger (brown) accelerator pump cam and we're good.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 11, 2014 18:41:43 GMT -6
Yea! Now draw a pole start! Did you block it at ten degrees as to not fall so low or change so much? It will help bottom end tremendously and improve vacuum at idle to keep it clean while low enough to crank well! With weaker springs to advance quicker! Crank at 28, idle at 32 and run at 38 max! You will see the difference from locked or changing 20 degrees! A small screw with the head ground even to the shank is what I do! A machine screw with star washer or thin locking nut with a short screw as to clear plenty! Grinding the other side to clear rotor or grind out the rotor to fit! Advance to line it up and leave the slot for the screwdriver to hold while tightening the nut! A hardened tall headed screw with fine threads as to fit and wear less! 5/32 I think is the hole size! It wakes one up a bit!!!
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Post by bustedknuckle on Jun 17, 2014 14:35:51 GMT -6
I was having similar problems this year, just got it straightened out . Found the distributor hanging up when coming back from maximum advance. My timing was all over the place. I put in my locked distributor and set the timing at 36* at 6000 rpm. Problem solved.
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Post by sssmods on Jul 15, 2014 20:09:33 GMT -6
Change the pickup in the dist..chased the same thing for a long time changed the pickup and it was gone .but I now have a great holley tuning kit lots of parts I tried thinking it was the carb.
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Post by street16 on Oct 10, 2014 11:31:29 GMT -6
Update: I thought I had found the "smoking gun" with a stretched timing chain - no such luck. I've pulled the engine apart and still haven't found a "smoking gun". Every lobe on the cam was perfect. I even reinstalled it and degreed it - Perfect! I'm going to put it back together with a new cam, lifters, distributor, bearings and rings and a different set of heads. At this point, I'm about ready to start looking for a banana in the tail pipe.
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 11, 2014 14:41:08 GMT -6
We have had lots of banana related things from bad switches and tachs to loose wires shorting or just a run of bad plugs or contaminated fuel! Low timing, too small of a hot wire, bad new parts or ungrounded coils! Even worn out valve guides under load! Its a big world we race in just to get to the front by finishing! Make sure of your valve springs and settings of the clearances! Have you switched intakes or checked for low vacuum or just bumped the timing up by hand! Will it load up if throttled quickly 3-4 times in a row? Does it cough or miss or just hesitate before correcting itself???
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 11, 2014 14:51:01 GMT -6
Keeping it cleaned out is why I always liked to run a vacuum advance and no power valve with 10 degree weight and advance changes! Slosh in the carb if your baffle is missing or float is incorrect! Check those pesky outside vent tubes and be sure to have the holes drilled in the butterflies to get down off the off idle position when lifting as not to flood or over load with fuel! A quick look at the plugs should give a good clue to fuel burn!
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