Just a little more bite!

You have heard this before I bet! Most changes ever so slight can do more than intended when two wrongs are making one right! A little bit too much left bite can unload the right when hiking more! Twenty pounds on the left rear can be added and rear transfer quickened by a stiffer lt. ft. than right ft. shock change if your cross is working with the rest of the car! Gravity is less on a full moon when up above, that is 1/6 less! That needs to be addressed as 40 lbs. more left rear on our set-up, other wise it will spin out or have less traction by not being held down to the track! Look for things that won't affect steer or roll to add bite or adjust others to work with or against to keep it where the working range is now! The farther back the more rear percent and more traction! Less wind drag and more rear percent can be a drastic traction and resistance change by freeing up the horses a bit! A couple of jet sizes up can kill some low end torque so you can mash on it sooner and harder than the guy next to you can! Dist. weight springs changing with rpms can make up for a slight loss of torque for three car lengths while making it move instead of spinning or steering at the wrong timing in the corner and burn the extra fuel to push the pistons a bit farther before the fire goes out! Top lube can help do this too, by keeping it from getting too lean on top end  and being too crisp to hook when only a quick lift is used! If you can move the fuel tank or battery at all to the rear, this will help traction! Location and lost fuel weight matters more depending on placement! Lead placed rear of fuel tanks is a better non changing thing! On the other hand extra negative caster when the wheels are turned right can transfer 40 pounds easily to the left rear on our set-up! Scales or a tape measurement will tell if the weight is loaded there or not by dropping that corner or hiking the other putting the load there on the left! Most need more right bite to let rollout to work for you to push you around the turn with ease! The least amount you need, as locked wheels and too much rollout compensating for other ills of setups and going straight tends to bind and one has to break traction to even move ahead! Air pressure as to bite location when rolled and straight are factors too, when talking rollout and steer! We win with 1/2 inch stager and loose off with more than 3/4 inch but it works great for straightaway speeds and staying hooked! No heat build up  to change things on our setup, with the correct air and less flexing! Getting rid of a power valve in the carb does require going up about 5 jet sizes as a safe starting point but keeps your engine from getting tight and runs a little cooler,(more horses) while hooking better in the corner! I hope some of this helps get you get to the front as it has always done for us!