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Post by samiam on Dec 21, 2012 10:47:15 GMT -6
Any of you guys changed any angles on trailing arms etc on a metric to make it faster?
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Post by wenee9w on Dec 31, 2012 20:24:48 GMT -6
Yes. Often and always.
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Post by redmatt86 on Jan 29, 2013 21:05:59 GMT -6
I'm new at this how do u do that and does it makr a big difference
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Post by crews58 on Jan 29, 2013 21:48:54 GMT -6
im curious please tell me how too?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jan 30, 2013 23:42:37 GMT -6
Not sure if there are any big "Tricks". Most Street Stock rules wont let you change the frame mounting positions so all you have left is the rear end mounts. Most will run the LR angled down in the back. My car had 7Deg of angle it. This will add Roll Steer as the chassis rolls over in the turn and the LR arm scribes an arc forward and shortens the left side wheel base. The RR lower most will run level. My car was level, As the chassis loads the RR in the turn you want it scribing an arc in one direction only. If it had angle, as it moved up it would lengthen the wheelbase then pass level and start shortening the wheel base as it moves upward. The upper arms is where many very in opinion. Some will say run them as low to the rearend housing as you can. This will give you a lower rear roll center and aide side bite. This is correct. Where did I run mine? I had 17 Deg of angle in my car, down in front and up in back. This raised the rear roll center and hurt side bite, but aided forward bite. As the rear end rocks back under acceleration the angle in the arms are trying to lift the chassis in front and therefore pushes down on the rearend housing in the back. The side bite trade off is a big one. but there are ways to get that back. If you dont do anythinig else. Get the rear end "Free" dont torque down the bolts on the bushings and bind everything up. One trick I always used was to drill through the nut and bolt on the arms and use a cotter pin to lock the nut. This way you could keep them loose and free and keep the nuts on.
Dave.
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