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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 12, 2014 8:57:39 GMT -6
Is flow measured in how fast or volume before or after the valve is closed? Cold volume or mixed really well volume? Against compression or just heat factors of fire power? Exhaust temps after the burn or how can we know? Is there such a thing as too much or does it just need more timing and more fire power to make it burn? Is bigger slowing things down or is keeping the vacuum in place all the way in, even in valve lift and size that important as to closing numbers? What about those 3-5-8 angle valve jobs? Are they really necessary for more with the correct swirl happening in side from cold rushing to hot? If the exhaust tune is correct, does it pull more in? After drilling jets and melting pistons I would say burning 12 gallons of fuel in the 20 lap 1/4 mile is flow to the max as I see it and the plugs are like new! I never want to have to try so hard to win again! Once to a point of understanding cams, each adjustment required 2 jets sizes more! From indexing the plugs, to brand design, to fire power, to header choice, to wrap, to air filter shape design and fuels of coarse ! A country boy has to do all he can the old fashion way and believe you me we earned it the hard way! VEOLOCITY! Do we all need more input to get the horses out or just run the ones we have faster? Horses seems to be happening after the valves are closed and has more to do with expansion of the air and fuel from the four heat sources! This is best done with cold to start with, it having more density producing compression by heat expansion instead of horses lost to build compression to produce heat and un-controlled detonation in the first place! Some horses are achieved and not just placed into a engine to run at will! I Hope my post are getting everyone closer to the front and not just one lapping the field! Give me your input on my output!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 28, 2014 2:18:28 GMT -6
Some are satisfied with buying the best and throwing it in the mix! I have had to question the many boxes of parts said to be faster as we progressed through the years! Having to go back and do the up-grades over again to be correct to fit the rest of my folly! Having Too many choices sometimes trades tit for tat in getting things matched out and working! Finding different ways to improve what you have and making it match by other means is sometimes worth the extreme effort needed in thought alone! SO --- How do you get a .066 350 engine to run 150 degrees and put frost on the cast-iron intake? How many extra horses is that? Was it the carb making it happen? Did it start with block numbers? Was there any special fuel additives to your pump gas? Was the cam special in any way? Was it built really loose? How much timing did it have? Were you cheating in any way! Most ask but never stayed for the full report! Even the engine paint can make a difference! Do some research and decide for yourselves what makes heat move in one direction to cool another by flow!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 22, 2014 17:48:47 GMT -6
NOS seems to make things happen about the same way I try to do my tune! The air gets colder carrying more fuel with it and by cooling engine temps and pistons it leaves less compression to be made by prior expansion of heat! The timing is started higher because of the cold to get it going to have the correct elongated burn stroke of more power! Less exhaust and a bit lean! So what it burns almost twice the fuel and burns more easily and cleaner, pump gas is cheaper than compression or adding stroke by grinding the crank where rules apply! It has and uses more vacuum, fuel, timing, fire power and stroke with less heat and compression to need more octane or machining to get more stroke or compression! DO YOUR HOME WORK TO GET MORE LEGAL HORSES!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 2, 2015 20:45:41 GMT -6
Does anyone consider the area of volume inside the intake as lost vacuum and velocity or is volume all you care about! When trying to freeze the fuel and air to get it condensed and in the cylinder quickly before heat has time to cause premature expansion, area of volume should be considered! If slowed by volume it is exposed to heat and can undo a fast delivery by expanding too soon! Intake reversion if you think of it that way can capture and restrict to the point of vapor lock and blow a engine from a over heated intake! If yours is not cold when idling what will it be with less vacuum at open throttle? Do you dare lay a hand on it at 230 degrees running pump gas? Can you even get close enough with one finger to touch it without a burn?
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