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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 9, 2014 21:29:48 GMT -6
I have heard this a lot but never ever think that! Most things are simple if broken down into smaller pieces! When I mention molecular, most stop listening right then and there! I don't see things in that state but try my best to understand why the ants work so hard to build! A widened view at any task requires effort on my part to understand the whys and hows to get to the fixes! I am still trying to figure out how to make this computer faster on dial-up but my set-up won't help a bit! The HP is of a different sort! I keep a big hammer close by just in case molecular might help! Is it the lack of rear percent or too much fore-thought slowing us down these days? I ask for help all the time and research all the answers I get before plowing threw the muck one step at a time! I would start with the air in the tires as more than just a given! Traction, steer, transfer, and roll are all affected not by who's gauge is correct but by you reading the sign of need of each tire's amount of force applied! Two extra pounds in the right rear has corrected a many loose condition going in or getting off the turn! If your tire gives differently each time, your set-up is compromised! The springs should move and bars to steer instead of loss of this function! Thus the need for more angle making things more radical when it does happen to work! This to makes keeping the air perfect to operate properly even more sensitive! The heat factors by changing track conditions changing pressures is then amplified back to the control factors of handling!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Oct 19, 2014 11:13:34 GMT -6
If driving in over your head or set-up is possible, I would have to assume loss of control comes first in braking and the shock package! Most drivers have good control of there reflexes and can only depend on good set-ups to protect them from speed! I try my best to let the car do all the thinking and adjust itself by steer in motion by speed and not by track conditions! If you need a little more high speed control, consider the points in all my post as to their merit such as extra caster adding steer and pounds to the correct wheel to steer at higher corner speeds! If having to over steer to the right to catch and hold your line, the rear is steering too much or the poor use of caster is not correcting the issue as you turn by spring transfer! Keeping a car straighter through the turn with more forward motion was faster for us! Getting rid of all the incorrect means of left steer needed only a bit of right thinking that puts things in order of drive thrust steer to free the corners up for faster turn speeds and total lap times to win!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 1, 2014 2:36:29 GMT -6
Replicating factors in set-ups to remain constantly correct in movement sometimes sounds more technical than just it all working together as best it can, one thing at a time! Branching out to understand what happens next can be see as HORRIFIC or just the next step in the progression of movement outwards in all directions! Not to be alarmed!!! There are only 4 corners to deal with and each have few factors! Weight, curve, steer and give in travel will help put things in its place of need! Keeping it there to do the job at hand may require more angle but less movement to stay with in the working range! Limiting the amount of nose, roll or hike to do a job is gained by other things than added steer or left rear pounds! ( EXAMPLE ) Rear steer needed to turn can be gained by not loosing tire diameter on the right rear by low air pressure changing roll out factors! As the tire gives, you loose roll out! If rolling up and off the left rear, that tire gets taller and may need less pressure as not to do so! Just getting the spring pressures in tune to allow the tires to hold their shape can improve steer to the point of less movement needed to correct such ills in handling! Getting rid of the need for roll-out frees the car down the straits with both tires pulling more equally all the way round! Now with roll out actually working, the right side drive factor does! While the amount of left rear is diminished and transferred to a non- giving right side tire to balance the pounds in drive traction with out movement of tire giving from low pressure, less flex, less heat in the tire, less side-ways, less friction, the pounds are applied! The spring should then give to change the bar angle and steer so that less side bite is needed to hold the side thrust or binding of the chassis! No tucking in needed by off-set to move the mass of a tight set-up! Free steer is like free horse power, you have to look for it in ways of thought instead of just adding to a failing system of use! ALWAYS-- ask more of any point in question to improve their factors in doing the job at hand! Utilize less movement with more reaction to improved performance while staying with in a working range of useful change!!! -- I for got to mention the bite line moving on both tires when on the throttle killing the steer factors you are trying so hard to achieve! How much steer are you using to try to over come such things??? Just another tight, loose, tight, loose look at the steer factors of air pressure and roll out being over come by extremes of over steer and movement in chassis set-ups!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 4, 2014 10:07:32 GMT -6
Questions in messaging---- They often get more details than a simple answer from me!!! Fill free to ask as much as needed and please point out my flaws in confusing any issue in the pathway of understanding your needs at any level you choose! GUEST-- get involved in the process of helping others as well as yourselves in learning the ins and outs of racing! NO CAR NEEDED--- Learn the fundamental principles of why I see things as I do after 35 years of fighting the system or normality of todays set-ups! I have found that the most simple questions have the most profound answers that help others the most instead of my confusing them with too much additional technical info! The response from others, those asking in private has been a upgrade in their set-ups and faster times to the point of winning on the track this year, after years of trying other things!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Dec 28, 2014 14:06:19 GMT -6
Over my head is lack of response of others! Living in the south all my life has left me to be open and honest about things to a fault it seems! Most don't know how to take that other than I must be stupid or touched in some way! Just dishing it out after using it to win so much just seems the right thing to do! If something is over your head don't be afraid to ask for help from anyone as most have helped me in my understanding of it all! The guys who started from scratch and wound up with the fastest Late Models I ever saw, Old School and New that understood the ins and outs of what works helped me! I still sit with some for hours on end discussing technical matters and am still am amazed at the detail of issues they encountered back in the day! After helping others to have a few wins this past season, I can say it still works and has been worth the effort to get the info out to those in need of a different out look of being able to win! Thanks guys for asking! It's still nice to know winning is not beyond anyone's reach!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 9, 2015 11:51:43 GMT -6
Reading up on Anti drive and wondering why nothing was said about the toe out changing in the roll or Ackerman being effected by moving of the uppers, but then I remembered that most of these guys have little to no weight on their left ft. but they do have to lift sometimes and I consider toe out to be much more important with both ft. wheels on the ground! The whole bump-steer thing has never been a issue as my left rear does not change all the settings up ft. when nosing or on the throttle! I can see pounds changing, toe, caster, and camber being the big factor in getting it to roll and creating a monster in the turn with different entries and rates of toe and steer right to left! I've watched as some use negative camber to help control roll factors getting off the corners in full hike! If turning left makes your car roll more--- try increasing the caster on both sides and try keeping spring tension on the left ft. to help it roll with ease while keeping the left rear preloaded with traction! You may find it easier to deal with and more drivable only rolled to level settings where caster serves double duty with use of both sides with controlled pounds, steer, and drive thrust angles with the turn of your steering wheel rather than the car or track having control!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 9, 2015 12:29:42 GMT -6
I forget how technical ft. ends and different set ups were before just looking at things and wondering why do things that cause other problems to deal with! Most any one thing can effect 20-30 more! I found it very productive to just not follow the crowd! Simplicity has much to offer once you see the complexity of it all intertwining and up to no good! You could be playing this game at the wrong level if a win is all you are after! Sure it all has to work together to win! Just like lady luck and mother nature have to do their parts! There is just no good reason you can't put both to good use with a little common ground! If you make it handle better and go faster but safer with more drivability it will improve your luck!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 10, 2015 12:24:38 GMT -6
Have you ever wondered how some cars need more to do the same job? From a negative one inch to six inches of steer while others have reversed stager or run right rear instead of left rear! Off sets or springs that are reversed to get it to happen while all the time running side by side! Cars that over roll, nose, or hike while other seem to be on a Sunday drive and yet still run side by side! I would have to say handling is more about the transfer of pounds! Does your weight move easily or being forced into position for effect at the wheel? Does your spring, tire psi and bar angles hold, push, or give pounds away? Does your pounds need to move or stay put in order to do its part? Is your transfer by roll over weight or preloaded and caster induced to send it home? Are you using the weight you have preset or waiting on thrust and G-force pounds to add to the mix? The leverage factor of adding lead weight to the left rear seems to help so much in all directions as to quickening the transfer!
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