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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 1, 2014 4:40:21 GMT -6
More times than not, each chassis or driver has some factor that is troublesome! While most can be reasoned out, some may require a complete make over to rid the one thing that is at its roots and cannot be vanquished by any other means! Trying to work around a incorrect spring can be a very long road indeed with use of off-sets, shocks and air pressures going against all there working factors and being compromised by adding angles and steer factors to achieve a pound or two in the right place! To each its own function and useful placement for natural usage and not for the correction of neglected choices in useful thinking! Stop worrying about the little things in getting it to work and look at the larger picture of why it should! Understanding is you best tool and fix in a smooth transfer of all related parts and their functions! (EXAMPLE) If you want your car to nose on the right front when lifting, the spring should either be softer than the left or unloaded and ready to be compressed! A softer shock than the left helps too! A cross weight that can be switched to add pounds to the right rear at the same time but with out loosing left rear! Coil bind or poundage gained by movement would be a must in this choice in which spring where and poundage variation! If the lt. ft. is stronger the pivot is there but the switched cross will lift the left rear corner and not hold left rear threw the cross as the rt. front gives most easily! Hiking the left rear would be your only fix to hold left rear traction! The low variation between the two to make it more functional would then compromise the help needed to get the car to roll and even out the nosing effect you were hoping to achieve! Not much transfer going on here with springs giving pounds away in all movement! A stronger rt. ft. is a no brainer to be compressed and hold left rear while the preloaded left ft. transfers to the right rear with an adjustable amount of preload! The shocks speak for them selves in what moves first and how fast! The choice of ft. springs and their placement and poundage has to be the biggest factor in the mix of getting all else to work properly, even if hiking the left rear less to limit steer factors! Little to no left rear movement needed with 200 split in front springs holding both the crosses at all times! Give me a shot at helping your assorted choices to work well together!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 7, 2014 5:02:49 GMT -6
Limitations of useful movement has to be my best guess at correcting poundage at the wheels! Having a problem is your first clue to a fix! Is it caused by movement or the lack there of? Does the spring travel bind up or allow too much? Is the transfer or splits in the springs side to side, front to rear, or corner to corner not playing fair once forced to bear the load of change? After 35 years I can see most things while going through the motions and functions that give control but they all have limits to start and end with before distortion overcomes poundage limits at the tires! If all pre-set preloads are held only by load of the car and not tied down in any way to limit flow, you may see the insight into keeping all fours on the ground and preloaded for traction! What movement does your car have that under minds spring tensions and preloads? Thrust angles can over take the usefulness of preloads and presser ranges of travel by lifting or dropping one corner extremely! The scales settings have no torque applied to show the pounds lost in the take-over transfer of traction! A 1, 2, or 3 inch shim under one of the tires when scaling can give new info! Putting the whole mix in will simulate travel! Use what you need where to match tire travel going through the cycle as a lap around the track! Use all the blocks you need in different sizes! Do you get my drift as to winning with 2-3 inches of shock travel as the only means of holding settings in pounds to the track?
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 7, 2014 9:25:21 GMT -6
Try learning the methodology of movements in spring placement to get preloads that helps your chassis to roll over and steer freely! Use your own good answers to your own questions once reasoned out to suit yourself! Question every aspect of any movement not needed in terms of loosing pounds to the point of lean and direction of travel! A learning advantage can be your best tip ever!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 7, 2014 9:25:53 GMT -6
Ready to learn it all again? You are your own best teacher if you can start from scratch with out preconceived ideals! Its not up to the chassis to dictate other than its weight factors in your choices! |
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 7, 2014 15:27:13 GMT -6
I listened in for a lot of years in the need of planting the right rear to get it to roll the weight over to the right for needed traction! I think I have covered that happening a few times by just lifting the throttle! No need to wait, roll or be made to hike to push the weight to the right! No need to lift a wheel or lean so hard just to get traction! No need to lift the rear unless air flow related down force is needed or to get some under the front to lighten the load! Instant planted traction to turn with out slowing down the process of drivability with all four tires holding to the track to steer on both ends of the chassis! Most hang weight up high to do this or use softer right springs but I try to never loose left rear pounds by movement! Once helping it to roll, control of roll can be given to other factors! If bumped, hitting a hole, or just timing your line the next turn yields many times the factors in consistency! If the driver has in his hands a means of transfer and steer rather than the throttle response controlling roll or steer you may see how drivability might be safer and faster in the turns! Your chassis needs your help to add the control you deserve!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 13, 2014 16:20:11 GMT -6
If you still think getting it to roll is even in the running of importance, consider the nosing having a head start on getting it to shift the weight before the roll or the fact that the pounds of preload there already resist but rather adds pounds instantly by means of force applied without movement of the spring giving to the load shift! Most dare not use a stiffer spring on the right rear for fear of the left rolling up if not weighted down with lead! Trying to keep it down with the cross only leads to less nosing from a more preloaded rt. ft. spring! However if running the right ft. and rear stronger, the load is amplified on the left rear when the thrust angle is higher than the right to add left rear with out the up movement lifting a greater load! Most do this lift with-out the load and the chassis goes up quickly! It has to steer and travel more to make up for the loss in right rear pounds nosing gives instantly! Having each and every aspect of the chassis working together is number one by logic alone, all else is up for grabs!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 15, 2014 6:31:41 GMT -6
What is most important about your chassis?--- Is it--the name of it with support with ties to sales or do they all come race ready to win? Most have general specs and you will need more parts and help to get it to the front! Is it more about who built the engine or the horses or parts used, put there without a clue as to how or when they are needed to be able to hook them up? I don't pretend to have all the answers but when you take a bare frame and build it from there including the engine, carb, and dist. to win first night out even mid season---- I would have say well done with no hot laps or tune or chassis adjustments needed! Don't forget how special the driver is that has the ability to do this!!! Protecting the car is number one in my book to be able to finish! I have options on the drivers! Building a safe car means it has to react quickly in any direction! Drivability is safety on the track! If you run close and can't avoid trouble, you may as well have stayed on the trailer! Is the set up that important or the geometry that makes it work, the horses or the science that spurs them along? Deductive reasoning is the best winning trophy to have! Its not the changes you make but the ones you know how to that work as planed before you hit the track wide open! Use some logic and make your own choices! You may surprise your self with first place!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 15, 2014 7:01:41 GMT -6
Maybe its the fact that its perfectly straight! Then you can put different springs on every corner and twist hell out of every thing else with all kinds of links and odd parts to get it where you want! I don't care as long as it doesn't flex! Too many ways of things just floating to worry about perfect! Some may even handle better after being tweaked in a wreck or two! We too have waited a race or two before repairs just to see the difference! The working range and witch end your own is what counts in movement by pounds of transfer!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 17, 2014 6:29:57 GMT -6
So is it the pounds now or how much you can transfer in energy to the wheels without loosing pounds elsewhere??? Force is measured in pounds also! Do you have to loose some to win some or just speed it up to have more potential thrust to transfer what you have by less movement of the chassis! If you want to be faster, check your thrusters and the control of their balance to steer ratios to pounds of both kinds of pressure!!! Most cars gain a few pounds in down force or side thrust! Moving those pounds first helps you keep yours as set!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 23, 2014 13:50:55 GMT -6
How would you start to describe the nature of thrust angle pounds of left rear transfer if it keeps moving and gaining angle to trade out with spring pounds? How many are gained or lost in the shift or shock process of holding or drag pounds! How many does the extreme j-bar angle give in centered directly to the rear axle in the process of getting in the corner? A wide range to follow when lifting up the left rear! I prefer just going down on the right side to get a more balanced load! 54 left side might be a little tight to most but if not having to lift the rear portion of that load after nosed by it is already there on the right rear you can run 54 cross to match! The transfer to the right is done instantly when lifting and there is only little roll as preloaded springs hold and poundage moves upwards at the axle! A low tire or weak spring can give away precious pounds in travel! Having things preloaded to start with puts more to the track when needed! Is your left lift affecting the right pounds before the transfer takes place! The unbalance of springs from corner to corner can cause much loss in the transfer of left to right or front to rear in getting traction!
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