|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 8, 2014 11:50:32 GMT -6
Does your ft. spring allow enough movement to shift weight to the right side in the process of sudden drop? If the cross is high along with the left side weight, it would be hard to get planted on the right side before the roll! Too much roll at once may be part of the tight loose problems we hear so much about! Getting a car to roll down on the right without coming up on the left is as simple as nosing correctly! To do this and still have a good recovery rate coming off the corner is only to roll to level on the chassis! Too far and the weight shift will hold it over! More so if running off of left side thrust angles! I use the150 lbs. of lead to recover from nosing quickly but to also not allow the nosing process to rob left rear but to add right rear from the left ft. through the cross switching! A close balance needs less to tip and at 54 left side and cross ( A tight set-up) is easily moved by tripping it so to speak by letting it nose quickly! By this the right side goes down with out the left rolling up so much! The chassis is level in the turn with a good balance in traction being held in place by left rear weight and the greater drive thrust angle adding to the right side pounds as it recovers from the minute roll! No added hike or steer in the throttle process needed by the left bars! At a close balance when rolled the extreme caster has no problem dictating steering angles and pounds to each rear as needed to drive where its pointed under full power!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 8, 2014 12:02:43 GMT -6
Did you know that extreme caster can let your car drop and roll on a dime anytime if correct in settings, springs, shocks, and preloads! Would you rather just time it correctly or be able to drive faster knowing it will turn any direction when ever you choose with all fours steering?
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 11, 2014 8:07:43 GMT -6
I as most understand the facts that tucking the right rear under and lower air pressure at this point creates roll to add more weight to the right rear! I understand the facts that a extreme j-bar angle allows this to happen with a greater reaction! I see the fact that by lifting the left rear and left front that you can get even more weight on the right side and left rear! I also see the point of a three wheel having a more balanced rear weight set-up working better than most others! What I cannot see the point of doing all these things to achieve conditions that can be had by other means with out compromising drivability by so many other factors that restrict the free power of rolling straight ahead! This means that the rear only steers in conjunction with the front for a smoother turning ability! Traction Is more about holding leverage to transfer pounds than shifting pivot points of static weight only to allow movement of the leverage point of weight! If on the wrong end of the pivot and only getting movement instead of traction consider holding it down and spring loaded for a greater load of weight being transferred with out the movement! If more rear percentage is needed to do so, where is it going to do the most good? And be assured that the transfer rates of traction are increased and are constantly there at all times! If left rear weight is achieved by static weight placement, you would have to unbolt it to loose it! There would be more to transfer to the right side as the lead has the left covered at all times and needs little help in gain factors! We all want the same things but its best not to let them come and go on the left rear! Been there and done that and found that a little compromise of the lead issue put us to winning consistently! A little rear counter weight freed up the front springs and eased the transfer rates to a better reaction of front to rear traction!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 11, 2014 14:16:27 GMT -6
Holding a good cross percentage to hold left rear can sometimes preload the right ft. spring and make it hard to get the nosing reaction desired to shift the weight to the right side! The 150 pounds low, left, and rear can unload the right front to ease the nosing process! It also increases the quickness of left rear traction when getting back in the throttle with out the lift or upset of steer to do so! This allows running the right side bar angles higher than the left for more right drive off the corners with out loosing left rear! Have you ever seen the good that a passenger can do if standing on the rear bumper to add traction when stuck with a truck twice the weight of your race car? With the horses doubled and the weight halved on the race car, do you really think you notice a 150 lb. passenger in your truck causing a loss of performance? An abundance of horse power deserves a bit of logic! Placed correctly it may transfer 500 pounds to the good considering pivot and balance points of torque applied! If moving the wheels forward helps just try moving the rear weight of the battery, fuel cell and lead low and back by adding 2 inches to the rear frame! Try a heavy bumper to improve rear percentage!!! I never had a sling problem with using the left rear as the center of my turning chassis!
|
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Nov 13, 2014 9:05:12 GMT -6
Opposing casters---- never used them to cancel out the good done by the other side in frame twist to load or unload a spring! I can see however if using the rear only as steer factors and letting the roll dictate steer and pounds how you may not want that process upset by the driver turning the steering wheel! I would just rather it help in the control by the driver in the direction of choice he is making! If having to turn left to keep it rocked over and steering in the rear having control, how would you pass with out loosing out on the only line you have got to be in control! What if you had to dodge a car or run in over your head! What is this use of caster doing for you! A lot of handling in ft. end caster settings!!!
|
|
