Setting pre-loads and ranges to hold pounds

Would you rather rely on the weight you just lifted with ease to hold your left rear down when out of travel or to ensure that harder to lift holds it down? I under stand that by getting under the load gives a better rear percentage but by changing the angle you have shifted it more forward trading some tit for tat! A slight counter balance was achieved but making it harder to transfer weight to the rear you have lost the key to letting torque move even more! Even the pounds of just hitting the spoiler at the rear of the car to add rear weight has been compromised to a more total restrictive down force! If you have so many horses as to pull both ft. wheels then would be the time to rethink their usage but not undermine the traction needed to be faster! You may be surprised at what traction you find by only trying to lift the ft. load instead of using short steering bars or angle to take the load off the pull bar to achieve more traction! Raising the lower pivot point instead and then trying to transfer by lifting even more leaves little chance of weight transfer to the rear! Have you ever scaled a car in set mode to see what pounds were gained where or considered the higher bar level you set for transfer to react to? A lower balance point of the lower bars with the  front of the pull bar up high and father rear makes more sense to me to shift more weight to the rear by changing the load angle to be leaning back instead of more forward! It may not be the fact that the car weighs more towards in the middle but it surely will pivot easier from that point to transfer more easily! Try a little more practical application on your chassis' geometry to get more weight transferred! Then see what a little added left rear counter weight can do!!!

Can you apply more force to something if it moves or if it holds fast in place while the force is being applied? Transfer is some times about pivot point and not the lift to get under it more! If the roll pivot is at the left rear wheel, how hard is it to get transfer to the right rear! You have to realize that the cross switching gives instant transfer and with the weight of the lead is in the center of the pivot in both directions to help balance the off sets of loads! The ease of transfer from rear to front and left ft. to right rear is then increased to give amazing control of bite on the right side while holding the left steady under the center pivot point! If you ever grasp this course of action in moving pounds elsewhere but at the left rear you will see the winning advantage in drivability!

Just another angle in the mix--- If you now have set-up angles and swings mastered you can start on stroke verses bore with rod length and piston speed as dwell timing changes the needs of compression against the burn timing sequence in ratios of swing changing the leverage points and burn rates of different fuels! Don't let me get ahead of you-- said the piston to the burn! Keeping and mastering burn issues in timing with different designs of engines is directly related to load and choice of fuel! More compression starts the burn off hotter but burns slower (higher octane fuels) as not to get going or go out too soon in the stroke! Low compression engines with low octane that pops and burns faster can run out of burn stroke even faster! Timing each to the design of fuels is the key to getting a little more out of your build! You may get a better look if thought of as rocket fuel burning in stages of just the right burn to get the job done! It's like keeping traction as you pick up speed and adding horses all the time! There is the turn again as the piston comes to a stop and returns! You may see how delaying the exhaust valve opening could produce a longer burn stroke if the fuel burned more completely you may increase the burn stroke! By burning out a vacuum is created that helps to rebound the piston so to speak while increasing torque! Thus the need of duration increase of exhaust being more than the intake with this added help in producing vacuum! A quick study of all the valve timing diagrams may give some ideas on ways to change the geometry, lash, and cam degree to obtain what you cant go buy unless using a roller set-up! Hash it out and watch the horses grow as you set them free! Asymmetrical cams gives some insight on this process but leaves little room for redesigning if needed! A good general understanding can open up ranges in burn timing in stroke verses bore, burn verses piston speeds and fuels verses compression! A host of fuels out there to make it happen the way you want it to!

We have all seen chassis work well with lots of different spring and shock combos with various weight distributions! We have also seen the same combos be tried and fell for some one reason that was missed or even driver habits or poor timing on their part! Letting the track dictate roll and steer by speed in a set up can be easier than finding the perfect driver but giving him control of the car and not the track as it changes makes more sense to me! The car has to have ranges of track control and the driver should be able to adjust that with the steering wheel! Control by throttle use and timing it correctly will always be a factor but should not control factors all ready coved in traction or a smooth entry, middle, and exit by transfer of pounds by the steering, nose or roll factors! Giving the driver total control can not be done by the massive movement of the left rear variations, however I have seen some make laps with no need of ft. steer it seems! Going a bit faster does require a bit more control for safety sake! Being able to recover when sideways right or left means a lot, not many have this option in set-ups! The use of extreme caster can throw things your way if loose or tight, rolled or not with the bar angles and drive thrust factors matching out pounds per rear wheels in traction! 4 wheel steer and two wheel traction is a wonder if left drive is all you have now with the front only following what the rear mandates!

I have went from 80 pounds of left rear with a 150 driver's weight to 40 pounds of right rear with a 285 driver! These readings were with out driver but a must as was the stronger spring change on the left rear to get it there! The cross had to be lightened a bit but the ride heights finally came around and it was as smooth and fast as before! It still amazes me how large the range of in the house can be with all preloads corrected! On a scale of movement by direction from 0-10 the left rear is my least moved! A broad range either way with a 5 or mid setting of its minor movement range! The right rear is more like a 3-7 with cushion on both ends! The left ft. is very preloaded and has a wide expansion from 2-10 before clearing the ground, which it never does! The right front has the most travel of about 3-3.5 and needs the full range of travel! Starting with little preload and a ballast on the left rear to counter the cross load shift to the front when nosing, it still has a lot of controlled smooth movement! It moves from a 9 down to a 1 in its 2 inch of spring travel before coil bind! These settings are why choosing the correct springs by car weight, corner, and location in preloads to get said ranges of travel and direction gives a very flexible chassis that still has room to cover the track to track and corner to corner! Having all corners holding preloads offers traction, side bite, instant steer, and a smooth ride with it being held well balanced and able to be changed or tipped easily by the extreme caster for even more range added in either direction if needed in any situation from being hit from behind or just dodging a wreck! The anytime 4 wheel steer factor amazes all as the car is very versatile in its responses of handling! Have you considered the preloads in your springs by direction of movement needs and what it can do for some set-ups if weighted properly?