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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 30, 2015 7:41:00 GMT -6
Sorry if my post seem to muddle things up but it has to be most simple for us to have won so much!! Granted, I am a country boy and my gray beard and clothes aren't much but after enjoying racing for 35 years it is most important that others have a chance at it too! It can get frustrating at times not knowing what to try next when others like us just show up and have won so much! I told them all the truth but they never believed it a bit as most here! Don't be afraid to question every point made or what you wish to know more about! Not all the info on chassis' from the builders can solve if not looking at it in the now stage! Its the biggest ball game around trying to stay on top of it all! We need more input or questions to improve ourselves as well as others in knowledge or just to get a tad bit faster next week!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 31, 2015 12:10:51 GMT -6
Nothing to do but plunder the tool box and look at the lack of good info in re-guards to problems! What caught my eye this time was the use of splitting the caster as to a fix that even my hat would have to say to be elsewhere! I go on the assumption of what works a little on one side generally needs all you can get on both as in ft. caster or rear traction! These are the only two extremes allowed in handling and performance that I can count on as being true to their nature! If you need more traction a little more weight by hook or crook will help and amplify the transfer of your load shift to give more rear percent when in the throttle! If you try to crank it in it will change your response but if twisted into the chassis by just a turn of the steering wheel with more caster, I recommend it on both sides as to control more pounds in steering transfer to each rear! Caster in question is simply moving the upper ball joints towards the rear on both sides! The effects on most any chassis is the twist or lean is pounds transferred by the spring rates to the wheels! Even your pick-up does this if on a flat hard surface! Its a means of rear steer as well as a pound change threw the crosses for transfer of traction! This will loosen a tight entry or tighten a loose exit leaving the middle in your two hands of a chassis you can now tighten to hold to the track but have control in the corners by the drivers steering! They wanted me to buy another spring and shock or change my bar settings while challenging my drivers opinion of needs! Some say if I never drove, how can I know what it needs or does!!!!! I can tell most before they speak, never even seeing it make a lap! Common mistakes in listening to you tool box speak! Mine just says --- throw another chop on the grill for later! Its about having more of what you want than what others need you to want! No split chops here when it comes down to traction or handling, I want the whole thing grilled with Hickory Sauce on it now and latter!!! This also helps with tight or loose tracks as to needing no changes that throws other good settings out the window for the next race!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jan 31, 2015 12:54:28 GMT -6
Any one ever spend hours on getting it right only to find you were out of order with sequence and had to start all over! Air, off-set, wheel roll out! OH!!! I forgot I had a flat while in the trailer and had to change it! The air -- its close enough! This gauge is ok-- I didn't want to walk back out to get the other one used at the track! What do you mean --you put regular air in my right rear tire! I went ahead and set the toe-in after greasing it, was something bent or what? Its a lot worse when I screw up in our shop with all the guys watching! I try my best to train our young help in the importance of orderly designs in sequences! Salt then Pepper on my chops first, until 1/2 cooked and then the Kraft Hickory Smoked sauce! What do you mean a new and improved! I like a constant car that knows what it likes and gives its all every time! It does take time just to keep it there as most differ weekly by wear and tear alone! Chasing down the one culprit that is failing that causes the ills of others is sometimes a long process if your help or info is slacking or out of time!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Feb 1, 2015 16:52:48 GMT -6
Negotiable balance--- A term even I never thought of until today! Let it be known as simple as being able to steer either direction while rolled over with out upsetting the chassis' momentum! A center point of chassis roll as to the relation of G-forces and their thrust against the twist of the frame by use of caster and the steering wheel! Sure the wheels are turned elsewhere as you go left and this is for what reason? Lack of (NEGOTIABLE BALANCE)!!! If the rear is correct by all means of steer there is little need to turn the ft. wheels except for compensating for too much or not enough at this point of the roll over! Preloads at this point become most important to each wheel's spring poundage as one holds the other in balance! Some may have to roll over more or less to get to this point! We normally adjust bar angles and rates of steer as to where we started and were it goes as open or closed! I always have closed as my first setting as open just follows the track! If your front tires are not pointed in the direction of which you wish to go it does put a kink in a free moving car as to side thrust holding it over longer and binding at the tires! Bump steer has much to do with this process but is totally different in most respects! Weight placement and transfer is a bit closer home! The balance of percentages and the amount of transfer to a point that caster can control or that causes the most rear traction gain in transfer by this balance during the roll is of which I speak! I can see why so many lift, hike, and run the right rear under to get this (TRICYCLE) effect to get a more balanced rear for traction! However the over steer and transitions to get there as a lack of good rear percentage transfer other wise in due process leaves holes in the negotiable balance of drivability! As with the front headed the wrong direction in steer the left rear pushing forward more than the right leads to a more binding left turn! It is no wonder that so many have problems understanding this process and why it is so hard to master! It is not hard to see why passing them high or low by rolling freely has proven to be a winning combo for us with the use of negotiable balance in tact! A key factor is the amount of toe out you have in the turn when rolled to allow for a bit of roll play at the frame with extreme caster put to good use to be able to go either direction in drive thrust transfer without use of steer by both tires turning the same direction at once! By keeping the left ft. wheel planted and preloaded against the right rear more transfer of weight happens with less need of movement, throw in a little more drive thrust angle than the left has pounds and the right rear drives it to the left with little roll out needed to drag it down in the straights or over heat the right ft. or rear tire and cause a set-up change! Keeping a compound matching between tires can be tricky for some if on the same tires all the way round! NEGOTIABLE BALANCE may help your next race!!!!
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