why does my car wheelie on a heavy track?

The more you can get that front up in the air, the better forward bite you will have! I wouldn't worry about it unless it is so bad that you can't steer the car.

If that's the case, increase RR spring rate or take some bite out of the LR to keep from three-wheelin so bad.

Its has alot to do with weight placement. Percentages alone, dont tell the whole story. Two cars can have the same %'s but have the weight is much different places. I had 50lbs of lead on the left side in front of the drivers feet and as high as I could mount it to keep the LF on the ground. You just cant hang lead on the bumper to get your rear and left. This is why you build everything as light as you can, so you have the leeway to put the lead where it needs to be and still come in at min weight.

Dave

It's just rocking over because of less tension by drop of the right or too much lifting the left changing the cross to a higher pivot and the curves momentum tilts it over! Too much J-bar angle lets the rear end slide through and changes roll center while sending the left side upwards! I have seen 3500 pound clunkers tote the left ft. a foot high with to much variation drop of the right rear spring! Look and see if yours has fallen out or the spring perch or location is indexing wrong! Calm down the left hike with the lower arm at a negative angle with out loosing drive if you must! If your weight is not low and left and rear the car will loose left rear when nosing or rolled by not pulling the right side down to help pull the car left when lifting or slow to transfer weight when on the throttle! If the left rear poundage stays where you want it for traction with no waiting on turning or throttle transfer or hike to put back the pounds you lost by falling through your cross, you are staying hooked to the track at all times! You can drive in over your head with out loosing control knowing it will move forward even if sliding sideways and straighten up off the corner at a higher rate of speed even on a dry-slick track! We have passed 3-5 cars up to speed in one turn! No rails or strings attached keeping you high or low! More of a snake motion to get through the traffic! Drivable in the turn on or off the gas with good ole mother nature doing her thing as normal! She has been racing longer than I have! She is on my speed dial! Check out her web page on forward motion!

Clunker about covers it and you may have not seen a late model run in a street stock class but I have! Track rules and regulations do vary greatly in our area! A four banger moved up a class or two from my help until super stock said no more shaming us! Not allowed in mods! I do things a bit different, granted! Too much variation in any movement other than forward can be a handful to deal with! Our 4bar would hop and clear all four tires if gassed to quickly going in the corner but it landed straight an continued on its way to the front! What you may learn in lower classes will apply as you progress threw the classes! Drivability in the turn is key to passing and metric cars are four bars! Leaning right or left, up or down, drive angles do apply! After helping so many win in every class, I do feel qualified to answer! Most BS accepted! Any top drivers who got to hot lap one of our cars said,( NO WONDER WHY YOU ALWAYS WIN SO MUCH )! DRIVEABILITY! Let the car do the work! Passing 37 running cars when starting 17th with 7 cautions and finishing 3rd after passing 3 on the last lap is what I call good hard racing first night out, new used chassis, mid season, B-mod class V6! Do the math! It's no fun just winning out front all the way! Drive-ability! No BS here!

. How much bite do you have (crossweight percentage?

So, have you tried anyone's suggestions yet?  

How's the car now?

51-53 better cross and left numbers should help! Having the left ft. loaded 50-200with driver should help it to roll and plant right rear as not to be loose! The left rear lead I speak of holds left rear from rolling up and loosing but rather gaining right rear in the nose and roll process! Needs a fair rear percent to work! Added weight never slowed us one bit in gains it presented to handling and traction! Ask all you need as to how it works! About 60- 80 bite changes when on the throttle with the lead there as the transfer takes place to hook both rears equally and lets roll-out do the rest!