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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 27, 2014 17:45:03 GMT -6
The number one myth is the mounting of weight low, left, and rear is foolish in any and all setups as to its sling factors! As with any change of weight location or adjustment comes factors! We ( in-racing left) start by lightening as to get a lesser mass to move! Then by moving things lower and to the left and rear that can be moved with their limitations! True that pulling both front wheels could be miss-con-strewed as having too much rear percent because there is no such ting as too many horses, RIGHT! The same could be said of spinning your wheels with too high of a gear when moving slowly and by applying to much torque! So do you retard the cam for all time or over jet and drop ign. timing for a second or two until you are moving faster to handle the before mentioned forces? This would make your locked dist. timing senseless as to having all your horses but not being able to use them! And as not forgetting the over jetting as with most carbs running a power valve that keeps your horses groomed properly! It's hard to get engine horses to leave hay for later with a power valve closing the ole feed bag when lifting! This leaves only more hungry horses in your engine's stable when you open the gate! A lean animal seems to be faster down the straights but off the corner requires showing the hay to a well fed animal (as not to be caught in the stampede) of the scramble of footing or the loss of traction! Having your hay (fuel) farther down the track! This allows the top end speeds that a power valve regulates back by vacuum leaving you tight on top end! Lifting the throttle loads up the engine to limit horses when lifting and running no power valve! There is more to staying hooked than just adding weight or limiting horses! Both has only made us faster with no wind drag against the higher gears, more torque applied, a better rear percent, and three seconds of on the floor movement of useable traction to speed us up to a faster rate to come when becoming lean again! I can see how sling factors might come into play if your set-up noses and does not plant the right rear just by lifting! Three wheel braking would become useless at this point! You would have to slow down for the turn and try to regain speed lost coming off with lower gears just to hook up! Left side weight is to prevent roll and any higher than it has to be would be useless toted weight and not at all to the good of speed gain other than the handling on a poor set-up! A easy fix in lead placement, that would be rear percent for traction! This too can be over done if above 61-63 percent depending on the horses you have or want to deal with and the load and gear befalling them! No myths in winning ever how you do it!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jun 30, 2014 9:33:46 GMT -6
Any car lifting the left front wheel is hooked up! NOPE! Just a 50-75 softer spring on the right rear or transitions lifting on the left side or dropping the right spring to make it so! This changes to a more balanced rear weight by use of the right ft. becoming the pivot so it has two wheels pulling for a little better more balanced traction in rocking it over in the process! If the rear moves forward 6-8 inches it places the right ft. more in the center angle of this balance and more under the weight of the car for a heavier more balanced traction! Left rear control while rolling up is tricky! Keeping it constant where ever you please is done by lead and physics! If a two inch roll can put more pounds to the right more easily with a spring holding it there, then no wonder no-one minds adding it up high or on the right rear to plant and give right traction! Steer of a 1/2 inch ft. and rear will drive you through the turn wide open if gravity is high enough on each wheel the same! Getting it to come back and stop steering with this done is going to require right drive to push it back up after the roll to get straight of the corner unless a tricycle with ft weight to be able to steer! Thus loss of traction on the rear with low percentage! But wait, I forgot about the tucked under left rear! The transition of getting from 4 to three or 3 back to four will place the left front back to steering and the spring helping hold (through the cross) to aide right rear traction! So-- why the lift? Why the hike? The air force applied with angle changes applied would be more restrictive and more down load than the 150 pounds added LLR!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 1, 2014 8:02:13 GMT -6
A straight drive shaft is transferring more torque! NAAAAAA--- To somewhere maybe like the wheels but not with-out the twist on the housing to give even traction because it is trying to lift one side while giving all the torque to the other in the process! Helping mother nature to use this is still the key to a better traction and faster lap when hooked and not lifting to change where perfection is! LLR weight does this TOO!!! Is it the inside of the angle that benefits equal traction or the out side up top that plays best together with the rest! If you have used a single bent lug wrench against a moving wheel you should have your answer already as to leverage and what angles can do for torque!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 1, 2014 21:20:55 GMT -6
If you lap the field, you have to be cheating some how! Nope--- After so much tech after winning so much, I still get this same old story! Two hours to tech our car and not five minutes on anyone else's car that I could see five infractions on with out pulling the oil pan or valve covers, much-less pumping them up or pulling the carb, intake and one head! No cheating here was ever needed to win!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 3, 2014 11:24:24 GMT -6
That mostly stock engines can't produce more horses by laws of physics put to good use to win than any bought legal or not parts can muster! Been there before! Won 84.53 percent of the time, racing 85 races in 3 years in 4 states! Less compression and pump gas at 6400 to win! This has to say something for this combination of the leverage of swing ratios of stock rods and added burn stroke of lower compression designs back in the early years of fading out muscle cars and compression while dropping octane! Where did they go wrong? Engine temps of a higher degree to get less consumption of fuel! Forgetting that in the vacuum vaporization of fuels that this does cause refrigeration, thus--- horses are born! But not above 150 degrees so much! Cooling air and fuels are widely known horse power tips! No-one seems to knows how much is lost by compressions heat! The cold fuels expansion creating extra piston speeds to keep up with what rod angle is trying to give, less drag of having to make compression, and a will to live on a bottom end of less stress! It REALLY worked well for us!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 3, 2014 16:06:13 GMT -6
Thinking that the more left rear or more cross is the most traction!--- To a point of balance without movement applied, this may be true of the scales alone! Rear percent and transfer as well as bar angles do figure in to traction if they stay put or move into a better position of transfer with-out compromise of existing settings of a natural set-up where mother nature is in charge and you are just helping her by doing what she wants before she wants it! Its faster that way if pleasing to her needs of LLR weight to move other things first! You know she is going to make things happen! How quick and at what cost it does take in movement on the track is left to us because she always is in the race!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 4, 2014 10:19:27 GMT -6
Short rod engines just won't run as well! Sorry guys but stroking and longer rods per cubic inch just adds to the pile of other things needed to make it work as planned! I am not saying it may not help from where you are now but there are other ways to get things done more efficiently with out slowing the piston down and speeding it up with stroke! Angle is leverage in ratio of push in control of burn timing stroke and location of starting to push!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 4, 2014 10:37:34 GMT -6
Light weight pistons move down hill faster! I don't see this happening! Up hill maybe if lower compression or with better heat factors of transfer but not to my rods please! How much does a few ounces cost these days in terms of horse power if you need more? I just shorten the rods and the wrist pins a bit if weight factors internally are needed! I use no balancer on my NF crank instead of steel crank and balancer! This alone is a greater total of turning weight than most! The belt does the dampening on my unbalanced engines! Compression drag alone is the biggest weight factor in a engine! Total those pounds against the crank balance of things!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 4, 2014 10:54:42 GMT -6
Cranking compression is some kind of indication of power! NOPE, Nope, nope!!! Maybe back drag of horses! A minimal reading as a rule would make more sense in tech of power control by track officials! Mister Isky said that his friend Smokey said it best when he said this, (Only a country boy could figure this one out)! Some things are more simple than you think! Others not so much---when you do think!!!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 4, 2014 11:14:12 GMT -6
That using a timing light to set your ignition timing is best! ---At best a unproven guess as the burn timing as to compression and octane to engine and fuel temps vary greatly as to where timing should be! This down to the air filters restriction by density and temps! By ear at 5,000 is best and back it up until you hear a drop of rpms as you are not loaded yet! Never pin your timing as to horses lost at different rpms and hard cranking problems of limitations in drop! However dropping 6-10 degrees in the corner can hook you right up to add corner speed to advance 6-10 degrees right back to get all the horses very quickly as speed progressed in three car lengths of being hooked up!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 8:24:18 GMT -6
How about, you not needing a vacuum advance when racing! Well,--- guess what it can do for you when it is hooked to live vacuum but limited to 6-10 degrees of movement on top end! By over jetting with no power valve to cut the fuel back on top end or make your horses spin coming off the turn, it allows the extra fuel to cool the pistons when lifting and the extra timing to keep it just clean enough to regain a normal balance as not to loose too many horses when flooding the system! It also can give you 3 seconds of extra lean boost on top end before having to lift! A pass them going in boost if your set-up allows for it! It just looks better stock in tech! A cleaner idle for those slow starts with a monster cam too!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 8:33:55 GMT -6
A roller cam is the only way to get all the best specs of a cam profile! It would be easier buttttttt! Valve lash and geometry can do wonders to a monster cam's bad habits! RPMs also has a way of taking what it wants back quickly in the flow of things! Even when hydraulic and no fancy bleed off lifters to loose one little bit you are trying to build up on!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 8:43:11 GMT -6
Ever hear this one? You can't!!!!!! I get it a lot of the time, but pay it no heed! Most things need only thought instead of restriction to go faster! HOW-- is the best greeting in the American language of racers!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 8:48:40 GMT -6
A monster cam is not what you want to get the job done right! ---OH YEAHAAAAA--- Its hard to trim the fat when your dealing with skinny! Although a small circle cam offers more room to play with things in geometry!
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Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 9:08:01 GMT -6
All your valve springs have to be the same or it will chatter the cam lobes off! Well if not done correctly I guess it could knock teeth off of the upper timing gear except for pairs of twos in equal 1/3 spacing by mathematics alone! Just throw in the vacuum holding it shut factors against the exhaust push factors and see what you think! The cam wants to turn forwards, I have been told once moving with more valves closing than opening in the run process! Thus more spring pressure should be more horses if helped by the jumping forward motion! I take it to heart and I do a bit more to get less restriction by less tension on the intakes to rid the added vacuum's force when lifting and what happens when on the throttle is more torque applied by less drag or more help turning forward or BOTH!!! You might need a DYNO!!!!!!!!! OR maybe not! Thought and PRATICAL still works for me!
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