|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 9:26:35 GMT -6
Tucking the right rear in helps it turn better! --- You may have a point but at what cost!--- You started with a heavier left side to keep it from rolling and now, WELL!!!! The track and mother nature is in charge and you're along for the ride and all you can do is try to compensate by doing other needless things like turning right when you want to go left! But ain't it fun that way!!!! I would not know as I have never made not one lap! Just watching it win is fun for me knowing what a real ball-game it is just to win!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 9:49:56 GMT -6
I bet you knew this one was coming!!! OR maybe your one of the ones just thinking it too!--- You can't tell what a car needs with out driving it!---- Ours wins right out of the shop with no adjustments needed but of-coarse I do keep trying to improve as to staying ahead! If I can get the info correctly from a driver, it doesn't help much! Even watching for a lap or two is quiet iffy as to a drivers own adjustments in style! Just the FACTS is the key to any good well thought out change after weighing the 20 plus pros and cons of any change made as to the better! No spacers, no air adjustments, and for sure don't forget what fuel pounds does to this setup!!! Just drive it like you stole it and want to resell it without damage!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 11:53:46 GMT -6
How about ---more left rear tightens your car!-- Maybe getting off the corner under throttle if no added steer is produced, no added roll or hike, no weight transfer except to the point of adding left rear weight! Not when adding more drag to the left wheel going in unless the right has more to start with! Not if it raises the cross out of its working range! Not if it ups the load of compressing the right ft. in the nosing process! Not if it changes poundage of spring compression to help it roll easier off of the left rear and not come back as--easy! Maybe not if changing j-bar angles when on the throttle! It would depend on how you got it there! Well placed lead does this LLR with out the other changes doing anything but improving, if correct to start with! If an adjustment is made on most setups the left ft. is the spot most sensitive that offers less ills as to the rest of the chassis when correct! If lifting the j-bar it might be tighter going in but all the others that a screw adjustment makes on the left rear is loosening! About 30 ways the last time I counted them!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 5, 2014 12:40:23 GMT -6
More off-set weakens poundage of the spring by leverage! It would depend on whether the wheel was raised by the track or if the chassis rolled! The change of pivot roll weight changed and a better ratio of less compression change at the spring!---- So I would have to say that having less spring travel holds poundage rather than lessening it!!!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 6, 2014 9:11:23 GMT -6
HERE'S A NEW ONE! Nope its old! The things of today's set-ups were happening 35 years ago TOO! I have watched these lever factors win time and time again only to be out pro-formed by todays latest design that circles left like Buzzards about every seven years! If it were only as easy as just buying a up to date anything to win! Even a pan-hard bar makes a comes back and wins often in the same old location! It was the FABLES that kept us winning for so long or was it something old that still works today by even older laws of phyics!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 7, 2014 21:04:31 GMT -6
Roll out helps your car to turn! We have won a many dry-slick race on reverse stagger! What if the grip location changes when rolled and incorrect air pressure? The left becomes bigger and the right smaller when rolled! Drive thrust may mash it back or give more depending on the bar angles and weight transfer! A Steer factor most miss in the process! Roll out requires a bit more help but if all else is correct a 1/2 inch works anywhere on the track! NOT on most setups-- needing 2-4 inches or 6-8 in some cases to compensate for other factors! The more steer, the more you need roll out as over-steer sets in needing right drive to correct it! More roll out takes away left rear spring load to help roll to the right! Increases right spring load tightening the car again! Takes the cross out that eases pivot centers! Un loads the right ft. and leaned it harder left while increasing left percent! Does this come with a heavy sticker price?? Rounds and pounds of them unless wrong to start with! Then it may help get bump steer, compressed heights, bar angles and pounds more corrected!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 8, 2014 21:31:33 GMT -6
Push rod testers gets your geometry correct! Well it may if completely stock! Other than granny's wagon, don't be so sure!!!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 8, 2014 23:35:32 GMT -6
You might as well take the left front wheel off and throw it a way!-- Some should!-- The less weight up front the better for rear traction! While keeping both of the front wheels well planted has helped us along our marry way through-out the turn! Yet some still marvel at keeping it off the track a touch! Those horses are better used in forward motion and the left front transferring a firm spring loaded tension to the right rear for added traction! This allows two wheel traction to hook and pass most cars in the turn, off the corner, mid track, or just by driving in farther knowing it is already planted before the turn takes place! Left front is the most important spot on some set-ups as to constant traction control and steer of roll out working properly!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 9, 2014 0:03:02 GMT -6
I want all the horses you can give me! Sound familiar!!! No wins that year! They just had fun trying to find someone who knew somehow to hook it up but never did! Be careful what you wish for! It must be nice to have more than you can use! Horses, I am fine with! Its the torque curve that puts them to good use if you can't spin a tire! Standing on it does require new shoes at best but a few less variable horses for a few short hooked moments can move you while sliding sideways up the track when called on! Forward motion is what counts in the turns!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 9, 2014 7:10:32 GMT -6
A loose car is a--- -- - well you know the rest or may-be you're like me and learned it takes a very tight car that steers itself to victory rather than hanging out in a crowd! That it may take three wheel brakes to turn and even to be safer in a tight car at such speeds! That slowing down under control helps when going left faster into the deep corner! This too has its merits of being tight when you get there!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 9, 2014 18:06:48 GMT -6
You can't get a .060 block to run cool! ---- So go ahead and run a 355 if you please! The cubic inches will over come the extra 20 bucks it takes to run cooler on any engine where horses are at stake! No problem here at .066! .080 gets a bit touchy as to having a good centered block with a good nickel content to start with and limited pistons available! No comparison in any of the three when it comes to power! Three cubic inches did correctly can gain 10 horses or more! Its all the little gains that makes the awesome total!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 9, 2014 18:17:40 GMT -6
I tried that and it didn't work!---- How many have just tried and put it back where it was instead of changing the other 20 or so things it adversely affected to make it work as planed? In set-ups or cooling theories, they do have set patterns to improve over all else to succeed!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 11, 2014 8:14:46 GMT -6
Here is a good one I find myself using!!! --The amount of left rear you have keeps you hooked and keeps you from spinning out!--- While a close at a static bite is only a starting point, weight per all four wheels is the controlling factor! And as they change continuously, it is the extreme caster and LLR positioned unchanging weight that holds the left rear and only adds to the right rear factors best!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 11, 2014 14:46:05 GMT -6
All engines run a little hotter when running hard! --- It should never happen but once started heating up most get leaner as it climbs! Too fast at the water pump increasing the pressure at the radiator or before the restricted point to allow the exchange to happen under suction back to the restriction to dissipate heat at the radiator properly! RPMs of the pumps design is compromised at one to one if over turned! Fan blades are the same way as props goes! A closed cooling system has little choice of increasing both sides unless pump and restriction is properly adjusted! A A/C system works on the same principles! I get more horses on gas when at 150 degrees and not to have to run so hard!
|
|
|
Post by flipflopoo1oo on Jul 11, 2014 17:14:09 GMT -6
Scaling your car will help it handle! ---It may provide tidbits of info if you know what to look for but the pounds is only one aspect of a perplexed situation!!! All the angles and spring tensions of compression travel by leverage and weight placement is limited! It doesn't say how weight got there! When it will move or to where when it does or how fast it will happen by shock packages! Even the now bite measurement is tainted by transfer and drive angles changing when raising the chassis! A tape measure and a couple of 2x4s can get you closer some times without scales! They also come in handy when you do as testing your improvements while on the scales as to where weight transfers to!
|
|